Gorillas in the Mist

By Chris

Growing up, “Gorillas in the Mist” played in our household on a near bi-weekly basis. I know the plot (and most of the dialogue!) by heart, and my first inkling that I might one day spend my life travelling from country to country, continent to continent came from imagining myself in Dian’s shoes, immersing myself in a new land and culture while in pursuit of a greater cause. Mountain Gorillas have always had such a incredible appeal - so like us: intelligent, playful, family-oriented. When I first committed to spending a month volunteering with CASEIF, I knew that I just simply had to make time (and money!) to make the dream come true. 

And so this past weekend I was giddy with excitement when I, along with Dave and Stephen, hopped in a car and began the trek to Mgahinga National Park in Uganda to sit in silence with a family of 9 gorillas for a single hour. We chose to visit the gorillas in Uganda, rather than our adopted home for the month, primarily because of the (significantly) reduced cost and the increased availability of permits - Uganda being only a burgeoning spot to visit these majestic apes. Mgahinga, at just 13 square kilometres is the smallest national park in Uganda, and one of two parks in the country where the Mountain Gorilla can be viewed. 

After a relatively painless border crossing near Kisoro, Uganda, we spent a sleepless night in an expectantly dingy border town hotel before embarking on our journey. Early the next morning, we drove up a steep, winding and badly pot-holed road to the park entrance, where we would begin the 2.5 hour trek up the mountain. Or journey through vines, thickets, and patches of sting nettles was worth the sweat and sore muscles. 

The first thing you notice when visiting gorillas is the sound - grunting, chewing, vines and leaves falling as the gorillas grab hold of their favourite plants. The next thing you notice, the smell: musty, dank, earthy, mixed with a sweaty pungency and a hint of excrement. Never mind all of the that, my first site of a wild, adolescent male silverback was one that I will never forget. Laying in a pile of crushed leaves, almost gingerly lifting his head to observe his observers, before flopping backwards to get comfy again. Of course, the photos do no justice. 

Over the next hour my fellow trekkers and I had the sublime experience of watching this small family, 9 of the mere 900 or so Mountain Gorillas left on this planet. I watched as the babies of the group (two 2-year olds) play, eat and cling to their mothers as they roamed the forest in search of food and entertainment. More than once I scurried back as one of the four silverbacks pushed their way past us, gently but intimidatingly so. And perhaps most emotionally, I watched the 8-year-old female who was suffering from a hand injury after recently being caught in a poacher’s trap - it’s unclear at this time if the damage will be temporary or not, only time will tell. 

In the early 1980’s the population of Mountain Gorillas was nearly extinct - found in just three countries that have had more than a fair share of political and civil turmoil, it’s amazing that a population of just 254 (in 1981) has now exceeded 900. It has been no easy task, and the work of countless conservationists, including the venerable Dr. Fossey, are to be thanked. While it is not an easy nor particularly affordable activity, the money that is raised continues to ensure the protection of these beautiful creatures, and for me that makes it worth it. 

The work that CASIEF does here in Rwanda, while incredibly valuable, places volunteers in challenging situations with long hours, but the opportunity to take a few moments to fulfil a childhood dream adds so much to the overall experience. The Mountain Gorillas are so much a part of the country’s national identity, and I’m so thankful to have had the opportunity to experience them firsthand - and you should too!

Stephen, Dave, guide and Chris