The Congo Nile Trail is a world apart from
Kigali. The trail is a rough dirt road but sufficiently off the beaten path
that in two days we only encountered about 5 cars and 10 motos. Our trip to
Kinunu was an out-and-back of 40 km per day.
Because of the hills, altitude and extremely rough road, we were on the
bikes 7 hours each day. We are now back at Paradis Malahide resting our weary
bodies.
Cycling is a fabulous way to see this rural
area in a raw and rugged way. Life here continues
as it has for centuries. People grow bananas, mangos, avocados, beans and corn. They fish in wooden boats. They walk their
goats to market. But that is changing.
Rwanda has developed a number of hydroelectric plants and is also
converting methane gas from Lake Kivu into electricity. Power is coming to these villages. Cell
phones are already ubiquitous.
The cycling experience is entirely earthy. The country is a visual feast: green
cultivated hills, red earth and Lake Kivu shimmering below. We saw and heard an enormous variety of
birds, the most interesting one had a long black feathery tail. The smells are
powerful: rich earth, eucalyptus trees and charcoal fires.
People greeted us constantly. Of course, the children call “muzungu” but so
many people wishing us “good morning”.
If we greeted them in Kinyarwanda, they beamed. A few phrases go a long
way. Calling someone “old man” or “old
woman” is a huge sign of respect. One
old man called out to our guide to “take care of the old woman” (me), all in
Kinyarwanda, of course. I am honoured.
At one point it started pouring rain. We gathered under a tree for shelter. A
minute later, the woman in the nearest house ushered us into her covered
courtyard until the rain had passed. We
sat there with her chicken, who was as tame as an old cat. Even the chickens in Rwanda are friendly.
xo
Patty (more from Michelle, below)
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| heading out on the trail - still feeling fresh |
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| shores of Lake Kivu |
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| homemade wooden scooter at the waterfall |
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| fishing village where we had lunch |
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| lunch - we even ate the heads |
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| shelter from the rain with a domesticated chicken and a new friend |
There are not enough words to describe the beauty of the Lake Kivu area in Rwanda.
We have just returned from 2 days cycling and riding the through the remote villages and experiencing the joy of humanity on it's most basic level.
All you have to do is say "muraho" (hello) and the Rwandan's face breaks into a radiant smile that gives you energy to power up the grueling hills on a mountain bike.
We had two wonderful guides Marcel and Mansuette who filled the ride with details and language lessons.
The views of the lake, the lush banana, avocado, mango, coffee, lime trees, the goats, the waterfalls, fishing boats, the amazing terrain and most importantly the hard working Rwandans and beautiful children fill my heart.
I was very proud of Derek for going way out of his comfort zone and eating the only choice at lunch "sambazes"....basically sardines with their heads on. That is even out of my normal eating repertoire but anything goes in Rwanda.
I am enjoying sharing this experience so much with Derek....very special.
Patty is an inspiration in every way!
At one point during the ride were welcomed into a villagers home to get out of the rain and we are now great friends.
Tomorrow morning Derek and I have been invited to the home of one of the staff of Paradis Malahide ( where we are staying in Lake Kivu) to meet his family....can't wait.
Happily exhausted from the ride.
Lots of love from Africa,
xo Michelle
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