On the heels of the US immigration ban strike down I am visited the US Embassy in Rwanda for the first time. I am advocating for visitor's visas for the Rwandan residents I have invited to rotate at Stanford. This year we are starting programs for them at Stanford, Cornell, and Penn State. It is a huge improvement in their education to have a bi-directional exchange exposing them to the countless resources we have that they do not. Only then can they determine for themselves what works for their healthcare system and their patients. It also exposes them to a more effective healthcare system to which they can aspire. As you can tell, I have been working on this exchange program for some time and am motivated to see it through.
Last summer four of my colleagues/residents were planning to attend the ATS conference in San Francisco. Fortunately, two of them had their research accepted for presentation, but unfortunately two of the four were denied visas. The rules around issuing visas are opaque and nebulous and both times I have emailed the consulate offices to gain a greater understanding of the process I have received tangential jargon without clear explanations. So, I am here to put my face in front of another human's.
The embassy is intimidating, of course; thick, high, grey concrete walls, doors that are excessively heavy, obvious procedures to make you wait in different chambers before finally gaining access to the consulate office. After having to wait until exactly 8:30 and navigating the two security stations I finally was able to speak to a very pleasant Rwandan embassy worker through a thick pane of glass with a phone and speaker to hear each other and a slit under the window in case we needed to slide each other objects of interest. It was all very prison-like. He was the most pleasant part of the experience and I found him full of good advice.
After the meeting, I asked the front reception/security desk to help me call my taxi driver, another Emmanuel (Emmy). They were all very interested in my limited ability to speak Kinyarwanda and humored when I introduced myself with my Rwandan name, Kanyana. It means baby cow and apparently is flattering for a nickname. Next, I went to the most western styled shopping area that houses the popular Bourbon coffee and the Nakumatt grocery store.
After meeting Emmy and Cynthia back in Nyamirambo, we hopped in the car to head to Lake Kivu in Gisenye. We shared the ride with two medical students Tommy, and Amy from Dalhousie University in Halifax. It was a fun ride to share with three first-timers to Rwanda and fun to catch up and chat with Emmy more. When in Gisenya, we drove past the Congo-Rwanda border, and stopped to look at a nearby active volcano, although it is relatively unimpressive during the hazy daytime light. We finally arrived at one of my favorite places, Paradise Malahide, an amazing hotel on the water of Lake Kivu.
We settled in, then sat by the water drinking Mutzig (my fave lager), eating dinner and chatting. At 9pm we went up to the open air lounge/lobby to sit by the fire and were surprised by traditional dancers and drums. It was awesome! Even their faces dance with bright white wide-toothed smiles and blinking eyes. The dancing men have elaborate outfits of white long skirts with chevron designs, long blond headdresses, bells around their ankles and intricate beads hanging cross their bare chests. Their ankles stomp the bells in time with the drums as they move their arms in elaborate ways, swing their long blond straw hair, and then jump repeatedly higher than Ive ever seen. They pulled several of us up to join them which was super fun and exhilarating but embarrassing for highlighting how Mizungu we really are.
I slept soundly in my private bungalow under my mosquito net until waking at 5:30am to the singing of birds and the water lapping the shore. It is a much better alarm than any I can find on my iPhone. I am now again in the lobby to finish my emails and am listening to the nearby church singing before heading down to sit by the water for breakfast.
I love Rwanda :)
XO
Ana
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| Paradis - everyone's favourite |
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| Ana and Emmy |
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| Mutzig |
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